Day 11—Headed Home

Heading to the airport.

Crowding onto two gas-powered, ATV-wheeled “carts,” six of us headed to the San Pedro airport with our luggage in tow.  Once there, we took Maya air to the mainland’s international airport in Belize City.  Discovering that Dr. Parker was interested in photography, the airport staff gave her the privilege of riding in the co-pilot seat up front to take photos.  The puddle jumper flight was low to the ocean, and I could see the waves and even stingrays beneath the clear blue water. 

Dr. Parker as co-pilot.

Leaving Ambergris Caye.


After going through security at BZE airport, I discovered a whole waiting room of wooden slat seating and shops that I had not seen when we had landed their initially.  A woman was doing a paper and pencil survey in the airport which included tourism-specific questions about one’s trip.  Belize really takes tourism seriously.  There was even an article and an ad in the in-flight magazine specifically about Belize. 

 

 

 

The U.S. customs form, which 10 days earlier would have seemed ordinary, seemed colorful and professionally laid-out.  The Delta peanuts’ packaging, too, seemed so suddenly colorful and branded as opposed to the clear wrap of Belizean vendors’ home-made goodies.

Landing in Atlanta, the buildings near the airport seemed larger and more well-laid-out than from where we had come.  The trees looked different, and there was suddenly an expansion of cars in huge surface parking lots.

Just as there was music when we arrived at BZE the first day, ATL had a pianist playing a grand piano in the food court.  The crepe I ordered came in a lot of colorful and branded packaging and the crepe round itself had been pre-prepared.  Then it was back on the plane for the last leg of the trip.

Returning home, it was odd to see carpet after having seen tiles covering so many floors.  Also, it was somehow strange to flush the toilet paper again and wash my hands with hot water again in the washroom.

I think everyone in our group that had not been to Belize before did not know that much about the area, people, history, economy, schools, and so forth.  I think we are all leaving with a great love of the Belizean people, culture, food, and natural beauty of the plant and animal life found there on the ground, in the air, and in the water. 

Mainland Belize.

 

One feels more connected to the environment in Belize as many activities are outdoors, such as walking or riding bikes or open carts.  There are many open-air markets, restaurants with just a rooftop, and classrooms with shuttered openings to the outdoors.

 

Mainland Belize.

I can truly say that Belize is unbelizeable!

Day 10—Snorkel/Sail to Caye Caulker

Sailing first to the reef to snorkel.

Today the entire UNCW contingent piled on board a catamaran piloted and led by four Belizean tour guides and headed for the reef.  Once there, and attached to a buoy, we got some instructions and then donned fins, masks, and snorkels then headed in a group to see the reef.


I was surprised that they had us use dish soap to clean the masks prior to putting them on so that they would not fog up.  The fish were not afraid of us and swam in and out under us and passed very close by. 

I was able to see a large sea turtle who came up for air just like the humans in our group.  I also saw a nurse shark pass close by.  Some fish with a yellow-green spotted pattern were really camouflaged when swimming over the yellow-green reeds beneath them.  

 

At our second snorkeling site called sharks and rays alley, I was hesitant to go in at first because there was a pile-up of nurse sharks at the back of the boat where the guides were feeing them sardines!   I made it into the water in time to see two nurse sharks and several giant stingrays undulating in the ocean—very cool.

 

Another surprising thing to me was the tossing overboard of watermelon rinds after eating the refreshing snack provided.  Although natural, the idea of something being discarded overboard does not sit well with me.

 

Arriving at Caye Caulker.
 

In regard to other food observations while here in Belize, on several occasions we have been eating when a food vendor has come into the restaurant trying to sell his snacks.  I have found this strange as we were obviously eating.  Another difference from the U.S., but prevalent in many countries, is that of asking for the bill as opposed to the staff bringing it on their own and settling up at the front desk with them rather than at your table.


Silverware is generally brought out just before a meal is served and is wrapped in a napkin.  A napkin also typically wraps the top of a bottle being served as well.
 

All of the food I have enjoyed on this trip has been of a generous portion size and fresh and healthy tasting. Typical items which I have tried are lime juice, rice and beans, and ceviche.



Rice and beans tower.

Lime juice.









 



 



 



Resting dog on Caye Caulker.



Day 9—Free Day



Another scene like a magazine here in San Pedro.

Today was a free day to explore as we liked.  After getting an impromptu ride from our hotel owner into town on a golf cart, Diane and I checked out the touristy and the not-so-touristy shops.  For all of the places inland that did not have commercial tourist trinkets for sale, San Pedro makes up for that with lots and lots of gift shops and street vendors. 



The streets of San Pedro have lots of golf cart traffic.

Some themes emerged:  items with “unbeliezable,”  “you better Belize it,” and Belikin beer.  There were also a lot of handicrafts such as items make from coconuts, wood, shell, and woven fabrics.  Street vendors seemed to have similar items to the shops and to each other at similar prices.

The streets of San Pedro.



 

 

One shop had a beautiful tile floor where each large tile looked like a deep wood parquet—very unusual.  People seemed friendly and somewhat willing to strike a deal if they were selling on the street.  Sometimes items look stunning in the context of the artisan’s collection but not so great back home, so I am a finicky buyer.



The streets of San Pedro.

 

Being on a budget, I did find a couple of things that I haven’t readily seen back home but really liked:  bowls made with cinnamon providing a pattern and scent; a perching toucan; and a hair ornament with reeds and a foam flower. 



San Pedro Post Office with residences above
and a pet shop selling pet supplies in the
same building as well.

 

 

Earlier in the trip I found three other souvenirs:  1) a bicycle made of wire on a wood base shaped like the country and delineated into the various districts 2) a license plate which has the county and flag on it for the front of my van, and 3) a patch from San Pedro High School.

Little did I know when I bought the bike memento in San Ignacio that the bike would take on more significance due to biking around in San Pedro.  The other souvenirs for my kids will be coins from the trip and some drink mixes I found in San Ignacio at the grocery store of flavors such as tamarindo, horchata, Jamaica, and guanábana.

Day 8—Collaboration with San Pedro Junior College (SPJC)

Looking out at the Caribbean from Ambergris Caye.

Another beautiful breezy and sunny day with the shade a very delightful place to be.  I am really getting exercise here due to biking several miles to “work,” walking in the sand and covering great distances, and swimming.

View looking up while eating breakfast.
 

Having chosen this internship due to the relatively lower cost than others, I am really glad that I am participating.  I think we have been able to provide San Pedro Junior College with lots of ideas with which to improve their program now, in the near future, and in the long term.  I have also learned a lot from them and the other members in our group.  One idea that I would like to implement in my own program in the U.S. is that of an advisory board or committee.  For ESL, I see this as a way for various stakeholders to come together for program improvement.  I would have a couple of students, instructors, myself, my director, and an outside layperson sit on the committee. 

It became clear today that San Pedro Junior College does have some community building events:  a new student sports (volleyball, soccer, and chess) day—held after new student orientation—in which teams divided by program division compete.  The junior college also hosts sports events.  They also hold a dinner before the Christmas break for which the first year students bring food and the second year students bring drinks.  Faculty and staff attend as well.

Ms. Betty and me at San Pedro Junior College.

Two things struck me as interesting as we continued meeting with representatives from San Pedro Junior College:  (1) faculty create their own attendance policy for their class as opposed to having a blanket school attendance policy and (2) students who do not pay are allowed to continue and complete but are not awarded their diploma until their bill is settled.  Therefore, there are students who have the knowledge, skills, and abilities required of an Associate’s Degree but may not pay their bill until their employer demands to see their degree, sometimes years later.

Getting the dynamic down to know when to lead and when to follow in a small group has been a challenge.  I had a fragile moment today in which emotions from my past got the best of me.  I was able to give space and regain my composure.  This was the type of valuable learning experience that comes once every three or four years or so.





Day 7—Island Life and School

Ambergris Caye's beach is like a Condé Nast cover.

Just like a magazine cover.

Cooler, breezy weather today, and I am definitely more clear-headed and productive. 

With the only ways of getting to Ambergris Caye (the island San Pedro is on) being boat (water taxi or private boat) or plane, I am wondering how so many cars and trucks got here.  There are lots of golf carts and bikes people ride around on, but there are also cars and trucks which I assume arrived via ferry or cargo boat.

There are a lot of dogs frolicking here—many breeds and off the leash.  I have observed many German Shepherds, and dogs even on rooftops as I have seen in other countries but never in the U.S.

Security seems to be a priority in Belize, as the majority of structures have perhaps one or more security measures such as bars on the windows; roll-down shutters; fences; walls, including those with embedded broken glass on the top—something I have also observed in countries such as Mexico and Russia where people are resourceful, but rarely in the U.S.  While at Big Rock, there was another low-tech example of resourcefulness in the non-slip steps which had metal bottle caps nailed onto the steps for a more grippy surface.

The beach is just like something out of Condé Nast magazine—white sand, palm trees, docks with palapas, and so forth.  I was saddened to see so much trash in the bay near the dock.  Most of it looked like it had been floating there for awhile.

San Pedro Junior College.

There are subtle differences in small details between Belize and the U.S. which I keep noticing.  For example washers are wider but lower and have two compartments—one for spinning I guess.  The powdered laundry detergent is all sold in bags as opposed to boxes.  I think that is more compact, but Diane pointed out that the cardboard will biodegrade.  One detail that I think we could benefit from in my work, is a holder for a remote which they had at San Pedro Junior College in the library when we visited a class held there.

San Pedro Junior College:  classrooms on left and outdoor gym on right.

In meeting with representatives from San Pedro Junior College again today, it became clear that we—who may not be experts by any means back home—are all very knowledgeable in our positions and have much to share.  Ideas surfaced as we spoke in the office, and then were later solidified with our group into the outlining of a six-part strategic plan which we will work on more tomorrow.  Greg and I will also try to contact students who graduated last year to determine what they are doing now with their degree.

In congregating at the school, I noticed just how much trash there is around the campus that is neither picked up by students or custodial employees.

We observed one online class being facilitated, an ethics course, and a class to prepare students for tour guide certification.  Student engagement was lacking in all three. 

We rode bikes back to the hotel with just the street lights to light our way.

Day 6—San Pedro



 

San Pedro Beach.

The heat here (upper 80s-90s) really has an effect on me.  I realize that I am very irritable in the heat and cannot think clearly.  I find myself reading the same sentence again and again without meaning.  I am so much more productive during the evening hours when it is breezy and relatively like the temperatures to which my body is accustomed.

I also realize that I am accustomed to making things happen at home, but because I do not have the same connections, resources, and knowledge built up over time of where things are and what to do, I get frustrated by the lack of control.  This is how I felt when I first moved to Wilmington—disoriented.

I liked that we had roommates in San Ignacio because it helped me reflect and question with someone to enhance the experience and its meaning.  I also like that we have alone time here in San Pedro to further reflect and to ponder at a deeper level.

Grounds of San Pedro Junior College.

Biking to “work” through the heat gave me an overview of the town of San Pedro.  In comparison with San Ignacio, San Pedro is a scenic, touristy town with a breeze.  Whereas San Ignacio was dusty, San Pedro is breezy.  The tropical-ness of San Pedro is evident—palms, golf carts, bikes, and sandy beaches.

I like San Pedro better than San Ignacio primarily because the town’s layout feels safer and more relaxing.  The golf carts rolling around help with this more laid back atmosphere.  San Pedro to me seems larger than San Ignacio and better laid out.  Whereas San Ignacio seemed haphazard, San Pedro seems organized.

San Pedro Junior College.

What struck me about San Pedro Junior College was the provost admitting that their goal is to assist the population in getting a job but it cannot be one which will take graduates elsewhere—it has to be a service profession like a bank teller so the graduate will stay.  This reminds me of my English as a Second Language (ESL) program in which we try to provide something that students cannot get on their own in order to keep them in the program.

Day 5—U of B and the zoo

Today we met with some key people from the University of Belize at their main campus in Belmopan.  The meeting organically enabled us to each share about our organizations.  They shared about things they are doing and issues they have.  We were able to further the UNCW connection there and contribute briefly some of the things we are doing as well as how we might be of assistance.

Their overall structure, services, and lingo are similar to mine from work so the visit was akin to other visits I have had with community college counterparts in North Carolina.  Some of the University of Belize’s needs are similar to mine at work:  that is, the need to update the student handbook and website and the trend of students shying away from seeing counselors and advisors as they self-register online.

We were able to share what many of the schools where we work in the U.S. are doing which is making sure students speak to their advisors before registering online.  This is done by requiring the use of a passcode which is obtained from the advisor after the meeting.

Another issue the U of B experiences is what they described as their biggest infraction:  students putting alcohol into other containers and consuming it on-campus before class.  A second problem they have encountered is the embezzlement of funds by student government presidents.  When I get back home, I plan to email them some of my ideas for addressing these which include getting the biggest offenders to change their ways so that the others will follow and getting, instructors, and administers all on-board with awareness and enforcement.

We were able to share about peer observations, faculty evaluations, and student evaluations of courses.  One thing they do not do is offer courses for no credit, as they view potential students as wanting to obtain credits for each course since it is through the university.

From when we spoke to Galen University representatives, the cost there was approximately 124 credits X BZE$450 per credit hour = BZE$55,800.  At U of B, it is approximately 120 credits X BZE$90 per credit hour plus BZE$400 per year of fees = $BZE$12,400 which is a difference of about BZE$43,400 in tuition over the four year period.  About 85% of the students who apply to the University of Belize are accepted as compared to all of the students who apply to Galen University.

We also visited the Belize Zoo which had two things that I liked:  (1) the naturalness of the foliage so that the cages were not tiny pens and (2) the signage which was very engaging to visitors, saying things like “if you want to keep your paws, don’t put them near the cage.”  I think the colloquial signage is effective because it draws people into the information.  Here are a few pictures from the zoo: 

Tapir or Mountain Cow at Belize Zoo.

 Tapirs in the wild can often get hit by cars.  To address this, speed bumps have been installed to slow cars down at places tapirs frequently cross.

Monkey in tree in Belize Zoo.

 It was interesting seeing the monkey hanging by his tail and later walking along the ground in an ambling gait with his hands and feet.

Toucan at Belize Zoo.



















 



 



 

Day 4—Caracol, the snail



Here I am at Caracol.



Today, we visited three amazing places that had me in awe:  the Rio Frio Cave, Caracol Mayan Archaeological Site, and Big Rock Falls.  All three would have been around during the time when the Mayan civilization numbered approximately 1.5 million (compare that to the current population of Belize at 350,000) and Mayan astronomers were mapping celestial patterns.  The time period for the ancient Mays was approximately 700 BCE-700 CE.

What impressed me most about the Rio Frio Cave was its immensity.  Open on both ends, one can stand inside the cave on a ledge and see the sunlight entering from both sides and the river flowing through it down below.  The cave’s ceiling gives the feeling of being in a giant dome of geological features.  Coming from the hot world of flora and fauna into the cool stony darkness, I can see how the ancient Maya believed in an underworld—it is just so different and a sort of reverse of the outer world.

The winding road to access Caracol gives it its name, as a caracol is a snail shell’s spiral shape.  What amazes me the most about this Mayan archaeological site is how comprehensive it was in its heyday.  For example, there were living quarters for the elite spiritual leaders, tombs, common areas for daily activities, areas for rituals and celebrations, two separate courts for a ball game they played, additional living quarters, and several structures used in making accurate celestial calculations.
 


One of several structures used in making celestial calculations at Caracol.

The Maya had “star-wars” long before the movie.  When they observed Venus (which they thought was a star) turning red during its cycle, they would attack their enemies, drawing on the blood red symbolism.

The Maya also had a middle class which was unusual for cultures of that time period.  It is believed that some who were working at Caracol as artisans, astronomers, architects, and so forth, sold their services and therefore had the means to build a lasting settlement near the astronomy area.  There was a second ball court near there as well which makes me wonder if that was the ball court of the middle class.

I wonder why the ancient Mayan civilization was wiped out.  It seems to be a combination of over population, warfare, drought, and other factors that brought about their demise.  Since not everyone would have been an astronomer, loosing these key “high-tech gurus” could have led to the secret dying out.

At Caracol, in seeing some ceiba trees, I more clearly understand why the Maya believed that the ribbon calcifications in caves were the roots of these trees:  they were pairing what they knew from the world around them with what they observed in caves.  Ceiba trees have an external raised ribbon of root system buttresses near their base and are very tall with a world of air plants living in their generally four main branches.  This tree is in all three words:  the roots are in the underworld, the trunk in the natural world, and the tree canopy in the skies. 

Ceiba Tree at Caracol.

At Big Rock Falls, one can observe the cascade while swimming in the pool it forms or in a larger river pool within view of the falls.  While enjoying the refreshing water during today’s heat, I floated looking up at the half moon.  This would have been the same half moon about which the Maya astronomers would have been so knowledgeable.  I think these would have been the Henry Fords and Bill Gates of their day because they would have been instrumental in the cutting edge technology of the day.  People wonder how they could have done it, but I think that there have always been techno leaders who are pushing the envelope of what is being done. 

One interesting cultural take-away from today is that of the “Sleeping Policeman,” the name given to speed bumps because they are installed to slow down traffic around schools and in areas near bus stops, for example, because having a policeman everywhere is not feasible.  Some signs indicating a speed bump even show the horizontal profile of a female cop as a stylized speed bump.

Day 3—Entering Sacred Space: We Are Family

After photo of group in parking lot of Actun Tunichi Muknal (ATM) cave site. 

 

Today we experienced the most incredible adventure which was choreographed by Renán, a local tour guide of 16 years.  Following Renán, we began bonding as family by hiking about a mile and a half through a subtropical, secondary (since it had been cut perhaps 1,000 years ago) broadleaf forest, crossing a chilly stream three times. 

Photography was prohibited so readers will have to visualize the experience through my description.  Coming to the womb of the earth, we entered the Mayan sacred space of the enchanted underworld by swimming into a giant cave.  This water passageway of rock, stalactites and stalagmites has been explored going back more than three and a half miles upstream within the cave. 

We went as far as an underground cathedral, swimming in places, stepping over and around rocks, and climbing up some rocks like stairs.  On the way, we tilted our headlamps to see amazing cascades of crystals, ribbon formations, and craggy tower among others. 

Had we not had a guide, one would have to be careful to not get lost in the immense cave.  The cathedral really lived up to its name, as it had a massively high ceiling.  There were lots of formations looking like roots hanging down into the space from the earth above. 

Apparently the Maya believed these were roots from the earth’s tree of life.  They would perform rituals, including the collecting and burning of human blood and the sacrifice of souls, apparently including adults, children, and ceramic pottery which was believed to have had a being until broken either by chipping, puncturing, or smashing.

Our tour guide Renán was skilled at facilitating the trek so that everyone felt comfortable and was informed.  He was able to assess what questions we had and address them in the group by telling a story while setting the backdrop for another story yet to come during the tour. 

Although Renán does the same thing each day, his job is never the same twice, as new days bring fresh groups with new interests, and the immenseness of the cave corridor and cathedral enable one to see new angles with each visit.

I tried to catch a glimpse of what it would have been like to be a Mayan ritual participant around 700-900 A.D.  Lighting would have been torches, items carried in would have been large ceremonial ceramic offering vessels (no small feat with the water and rocks as impediments), sounds would have included music and chanting.  The artifacts we saw in the cathedral space included calcified bones and desecrated ceramic pots. 

We all made it out, but my hair elastic worked its way out and was sacrificed to the gods of the underworld.

Day 2—Focus on Galen University

 

Arriving at Galen University outside of San Ignacio.

Arriving via public bus from San Ignacio, we met with faculty and toured Galen University—first at their location outside of San Ignacio and then the Belmopan campus. 

Galen University is a private university of about 400-500 students with about 200 attending at the campus we visited in San Ignacio.  Programs include Bachelor’s degrees in Business Administration, Banking & Finance, and Primary Education with about 170 teachers enrolled as their main market segment. 




Palapa (shelter with palm leaf roof)
 and van at Galen University.

 Galen University uses a distance learning model in which approximately 150 students are served at once through the use of two-way video technology, which connects multiple classes meeting simultaneously at various sites to a live webcast led by rotating faculty.  Each site’s classroom has a facilitator who ensures the class computer and projector are functioning and properly connected.  This cyber gatekeeper at each site also facilitates students asking questions from their site during the webcast.


One of several classrooms used during simultaneous webcasts.

I would think this model works well to instruct 150+ students at once because each student and each class is part of something bigger than themselves.  Students see and interact with the other classes, so they see students like themselves learning and succeeding.  The instructors rotate, providing a variety of teaching and learning styles.  One still has the community building with classmates because students are physically attending and not logging on from home or elsewhere.  Although the lesson is led by one instructor, the various classes at the different sites have the opportunity to bond as a class, while participating in class activities.


Close up of cool and refreshing ceramic tile floor in classroom.

The Director of Student Affairs at Galen University mentioned several times that she was available to assist students at all hours through phone, email, Facebook and other social media.  I spoke to a second term student who had graduated from high school last year.  She corroborated that, indeed, the Director of Student Affairs is available to answer questions at 2am.  This student support is one way that Galen University has a very high completion rate.  They also offer many extracurricular activities to enhance the experience for students.  Another thing they are able to do because they are small is go back into the system to see who has graduated and follow up to see what graduates are doing.  The Director of Student Affairs has identified the need to have a counselor dedicated to assisting students.  She would also like to create an alumni network, perhaps getting alumni donors as they currently have no donors.

Student lounge.

One issue which they face, which I also see in the U.S. and influenced by increased texting, is that of students not having strong writing skills.  Galen University’s Director of Student Affairs referred several times to students’ inability to express themselves in writing. To address this, Galen University uses entrance exams as a placement test to work with a student and bring up his/her skills.  They also have tutoring services available, drawing from academic scholarship recipients who “give back” by assisting others with the writing process in a tutoring center.  Participation, to a higher degree, of scholarship students is expected.  Additionally, Galen University offers a mandatory career and employer strategies course in which students polish skills needed for writing a cover letter and filling out an application among other things. 

Library.

Another issue they face, which we also face in the U.S., is that of student disengagement.  Their Director of Student Affairs thought contributors to this are maturity level and values of adolescents launching into adulthood. To get students more involved, Galen University has started a seminar series in which students begin by joining the band for the national anthem followed by the school song.  The creation of the band (drums, guitarists, vocalists, and keyboardists) and various athletic teams (basketball) as well as games (chess and dominoes), both comprised of scholarship recipients, also tries to engage students. 

Galen University also offers a cultural experience course in which students are exposed to Garifuna drumming and language, engage in fieldtrips, and create a class drum.  The student I spoke with had taken this class and was hoping to join a few more extracurricular activities because they were fun.  Drums made by recent classes were on display at the front desk of Galen University.  Student artwork from recent photography classes adorned the walls near the front desk as well as the hallway upstairs.



Class-made and signed Garafuna drums on display at main desk.

The fact that Galen University at their student orientation addresses procrastination and plagiarism speaks to the topics of engagement and writing.

I found it interesting that, although he thought data important in driving change, the Interim Provost of Galen University did not need to look at the exact figures because it was intuitively evident that the curriculum needs better alignment to students’ future needs.  He mentioned having a frame of reference and making a difference one teacher at a time.



Registrars Office at Galen University.

It was great interacting with people who have similar roles to the ones I know back home, experience similar scenarios, and have the buzzwords to talk about it with us.

Day 1—Arrival

Leaving Wilmington, I spotted from the plane, a wild turkey running along the tree line as we were accelerating on the runway.  On the approach into Atlanta, I noticed several craggy lakes and a greener-than-Wilmington landscape accented with lots of big, boxy warehouses.

Back in the air again, flying at 34,000 feet over New Orleans and over Cancun and the Yucatan peninsula, I saw more open topography than I expected, a couple of large fires billowing smoke, pinkish hues in some of the trees which later from the ground I determined were withered palmetto fronds, endless shadows of clouds which gave the illusion of lakes on the ground, and few vehicles on the rural roads.   

 

 View from Plane

 

On our same flight were 30 seventeen year olds from South of London coming to study biology and geography for 10 days in Belize—kudos to that school for providing the opportunity for youth to learn experientially and globally. 

I was surprised as to how small the Belize City airport is.  We landed taking up the length of the runway, turned around and taxied half way back ON THE RUNWAY to the taxiway.  Once inside, there was welcoming live Garifuna drumming music played by two drummers seated on a “stage” above the luggage carousel.

Belize City Airport

 

The weather here in Belize is drier than I had expected.  Some widespread differences I have noticed include the use of cement in building structures including filigreed cement blocks for décor and columnar banisters, painted signs as opposed to commercial light-up signs, and the use of buses.  Some shops that look to be thriving in Belize would have a hard time making it in the United States due to competition and franchises which influence the market. 

We got to meet two administrators from the University of the West Indies and share over lunch what each of us is doing and formulate a game plan for future collaboration.